Highway report from Lima Wednesday, September 10th, 2008
The first experience I had after landing in Lima was to stroll out to the highway, backpack slung around my shoulders, and attempt to get into town the ‘unorthodox way’.
To follow the safest and easiest method - that is, to hire a green taxi from the airport to Miraflores for some $20USD - was recommended by most travellers, guidebooks and locals. However the prospect of stumbling around a six lane highway off the back of a 20 hour flight looking for a bus or an unlicensed cab seemed rather a good idea at the time.
I’d been told that buses were the cheapest (30 US cents) and most interesting method of transport. If by interesting they meant ancient, dilapidated and more crowded than the Victoria line at 8:45 on a Monday morning, then they were right. Besides the fact that it would have been more likely to grow wings and fly to Venus than to fit myself and my backpack on one of those mini-buses, I severely doubted their ability to carry me safely throughout the 30 minute journey. So I hailed down a cab, which I estimated had less internal rust damage than the others that were parked at the bus stop.
“How much to Miraflores?” I asked, trying not to sound too gringo.
The driver quoted a price half of what one would pay from an official cab at the airport, so I agreed and jumped in, ready to relax and survey my surroundings for future reference.
While most vehicles appear run down, missing parts or altogether not roadworthy, one feature is always in perfect working condition: car horns provide a ceaseless and polyphonic cacophony throughout the entire city and are used both to communicate to other road users your emotional state and to just randomly startle pedestrians and your passengers.
Once you know the system, getting around Lima is easy and insanely cheap. If you take one of the hundreds of buses or mini-buses that seem to patrol every main road you pay around 30 to 40 cents to go just about anywhere in the city. They’re not the fastest means of transport but they’d have to be the most fun. You can stand at any corner, hail one down (assuming you know where you’re going) and jump straight in to what seems like a mobile salsa club. The paint jobs and models of each bus are as eclectic as the latin music which pumps from its stereo. Sadly, their adherence to the rules of the road is just as diverse. But the locals seem to be relaxed and have no problem with the system.
When your nerves finally get the better of you the local taxis are also great value. From Lima central to Miraflores or Barranco - two of the coastal towns south of the city - it will probably cost around $1.50. Which will leave you just enough funds to afford a set menu of ceviche, roast chicken and chica morada for $2.
